My first visit to Bukit Lawang was prompted by a quick plan to follow two American biologists who were intrigued by the orange-furred great apes’ inability to jump and instead swinging from one tree to another by holding all the strong, flexible branches.
It was my birthday trip on November 29, 2010, 12 years ago, exactly 2 years before I started moving and living in Bukit Lawang on November 29, 2012. Wanting to see an orangutan was not my main goal in Bukit Lawang because I had seen one almost every day from a pet belonging to a neighbor inside the military housing complex. Orangutan conservation in the 90s could never be the same as nowadays.
Bukit Lawang was in my mind 12 years ago as a sketch of a village close to the jungle and its clean river, but on Sunday, November 2, 2003, the village was swept by a big flash flood, and 177 people were killed.
Dark and heavy rain got my clothes fully wet to sit on the bus at Aceh bus station. It was a 10-hour trip from Aceh to get to Binjai, the closest small town before getting to Bukit Lawang, in North Sumatra province; Bukit Lawang is two hours from there.
We kept ourselves busy on a piece of paper, writing a few lists of species we expected to see. We started the track two days after arriving in our small bungalows in Bukit Lawang. An unforgettable morning had begun due to the loud singing of white-handed gibbons across the river in front of our bungalows, heading up to the hill inside Gunung Leuser National Park. The noise was just about 200–300 meters from the old balcony where we were hanging on hammocks.
We took our time to see around villages by becak (tuk-tuk), the two American biologists suddenly yelling on me over two Asian forest tortoises (Manouria emys), which were caged alongside three chickens in front of a small shop, 30 minutes from Bukit Lawang.
This species was listed in our paper as the animals we wanted to see. We were trying to convince the captors, but one of them insisted on selling, and we left it with an unhappy feeling. It piques my interest; there must be many more animals enthralled out there.
On the way back to Bukit Lawang by becak (tuk-tuk), the noise from its smoky exhaust wasn’t getting me distracted from looking at all the house terraces in the villages, and I realized songbirds from Chloropsis were most favored here.
Our trekking finally started, we had to walk passing many houses in the village that was suddenly stopped for a while by an endemic species of Thomas’s langur (Presbytis thomasi), sitting on the pole. We thought it would take days to see this endemic species inside the park, but no, it wasn’t! Our two listed species have been found outside the park.